Why Retinoids Are So Popular Among Dermatologists

If you follow skincare on social media you probably have seen posts about retinoids. There has been a lot of discussion, as well as confusion and misinformation, about retinoids and retinol (which is a form of retinoid available in over-the-counter products and typically less potent than prescription retinoids). I get so many questions on this topic that I wanted to share some basic information and explain why so many people are excited about this ingredient.

First, retinol is a derivative of Vitamin A. When incorporated into your skincare routine, retinol can enhance collagen production and can be preventative from a photoaging perspective. Some of the specific benefits include:

☑️ Softening fine lines and wrinkles as well as textural changes
☑️ Brightening dull skin by exfoliating at a cellular level
☑️ Helping to minimize acne breakouts
☑️ Reducing the appearance of sun spots and hyperpigmentation and evening out complexion over time.

Retinol may cause the skin to redden or dry out if introduced too quickly or used too often. Typically, it just takes a little time for the skin to adjust, but it’s so worth it for your skin in the long run! A good retinol cream is definitely part of a preventative skin care routine that I recommend. If you are interested in adding retinol to your skincare routine you should talk to your dermatologist who can recommend products that are best for you!

Note that patients with sensitive, rosacea, or eczema prone skin may not be able to tolerate retinol / retinoids. And for anyone starting on a retinoid, here are some tips to minimize potential irritation.

𝐁𝐚𝐬𝐢𝐜𝐬 𝐨𝐟 𝐔𝐬𝐞:
🔹 Use at night. Cleanse skin first and pat dry.
🔹 Apply a small pea-sized amount of product evenly to each area of the face. Be careful around eyes and neck which can be more sensitive.
🔹 Follow application with a moisturizer.
🔹 Don’t spot treat when using for acne. Apply to all areas to prevent new acne from developing. Early acne lesions are not visible.
🔹 Use every other night to start. If well tolerated, increase to every night.
🔹 Consistency is key: keep your retinoid where you can easily see it, so application is part of your nightly routine.
🔹 Protect your skin from the sun. I recommend that you wear at least a sunscreen with SPF30 daily. (𝘊𝘰𝘯𝘵𝘳𝘢𝘳𝘺 𝘵𝘰 𝘤𝘰𝘮𝘮𝘰𝘯 𝘮𝘺𝘵𝘩𝘴, 𝘳𝘦𝘵𝘪𝘯𝘰𝘪𝘥𝘴 𝘤𝘢𝘯 𝘣𝘦 𝘶𝘴𝘦𝘥 𝘪𝘯 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘴𝘶𝘮𝘮𝘦𝘳 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘰𝘯 𝘴𝘶𝘯𝘯𝘺 𝘷𝘢𝘤𝘢𝘵𝘪𝘰𝘯𝘴, 𝘣𝘶𝘵 𝘴𝘶𝘯 𝘱𝘳𝘰𝘵𝘦𝘤𝘵𝘪𝘰𝘯 𝘪𝘴 𝘢𝘭𝘸𝘢𝘺𝘴 𝘦𝘴𝘴𝘦𝘯𝘵𝘪𝘢𝘭!)

𝐓𝐢𝐩𝐬 𝐭𝐨 𝐌𝐢𝐧𝐢𝐦𝐢𝐳𝐞 𝐈𝐫𝐫𝐢𝐭𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧
🔹 Can wait 10-15 min after cleansing before applying retinoid to lessen risk of irritation.
🔹 Layer retinoid between two applications of moisturizer (sandwich technique)
🔹 Avoid using harsh cleansers, exfoliating scrubs, and astringents while using your topical treatment.
🔹 Consider ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and niacinamide that can counteract some of the dryness or redness that may occur with use of retinoids and can help repair the skin barrier.
🔹 Short-contact application of retinoids (minutes to a few hours) may be an option if you are having trouble tolerating the topical medication.
🔹 If you develop significant irritation, stop the retinoid, moisturize, then restart once your skin has settled. Apply for 30–60 minutes for a few days before leaving on for longer intervals.