Skincare Labelling: What You Should Know
Finding the right skincare products can be tough and labeling can sometimes make things more, not less, confusing. The FDA and Health Canada have some differences in how they regulate personal care products but overall similar approach and points here would apply in both .
The first point of distinction is drugs vs cosmetics. Cosmetics are intended to clean or improve the appearance of the skin, whereas drugs are used to treat a medical condition. Generally drugs must be pre-cleared by regulators and have a defined use and benefits. Only drugs are permitted to make therapeutic claims but some cosmetic marketing toes (or crosses) this line.
Cosmetics generally do not need approval prior to being sold to consumers and responsibility lies with the manufacturer for product safety and determining how products are marketed. However, there are laws and regulations in place to ensure products are safe for consumer use. But when it comes to marketing, many cosmetic labeling terms are not legally defined so they can essentially mean whatever a manufacturer decides. These terms include “clean”, “natural”, “hypoallergenic”, “for sensitive skin”, “dermatologist tested / recommended” and more.
One study found that of 187 tested products that were marketed as “hypoallergenic”, “dermatologist recommended” or “fragrance free” 89% contained at least one common contact allergen.
The trend toward labeling products as “free of…” can also be a bit of a red herring as it draws attention away from everything that is contained in a product to highlight something that is not. And even “free of” claims that would seem to be straight forward may not be. For example, if a fragrance additive is used for another purpose (e.g. as a moisturizer or a preservative) then it may legally be included in a product labeled as “fragrance free.”
My take-aways when it comes to cosmetic skincare: take marketing labels with a grain of salt, use ingredient lists if you have a known allergy or sensitivity, find sources of information you trust for recommendations, and try things for yourself!